Showing posts with label led. Show all posts
Showing posts with label led. Show all posts
Thursday, December 26, 2013
LDR Based 12V White LED Driver for up to 30 LEDs
While we have now published quite a few LED driver circuits, to date we have not published a design to drive a bunch of high-brightness white LEDs. Such a circuit is now quite desirable as the price of white LEDs has fallen and you can have a handful for not a lot of dollars. However, white LEDs do present a problem because they need a higher drive voltage than monochromatic types such as red, green, orange etc.
Instead of around 1.8V to 2V or thereabouts, they normally require more than 3V to produce their rated brightness. In fact, if you are driving a bunch of them you need to drive them all at constant current otherwise their individual brightness tends to vary markedly. However, if you only have a 12V supply available, you can only put two or maybe three LEDs in series together with a constant current source and this leads to poor efficiency.
The approach in this circuit is to boost the 12V supply to something around 21V and this means that we can have groups of five LEDs, each in series with their own current source transistors. The result is a single PC board with the drive circuitry and 30 white LEDs. It can be used for lighting in caravans and recreational vehicles, emergency lighting or whatever application you can think of. Current drain is around 190mA at 12V.
Now let’s have a look at the circuit of Fig.1. It uses just one IC (a 4093 quad NAND Schmitt trigger gate package), a few transistors and diodes, 30 white LEDs and not much else. So where is the familiar boost converter circuit? Answer: there isn’t one or least not one with an inductor switched by a Mosfet. Instead, there is a charge pump inverter, comprising IC1c, transistors Q2 & Q3, Schottky diodes D1 & D2 and a few capacitors. It works as follows:
IC1c is connected as an inverter oscillator and its running frequency of about 30kHz is determined mainly by the 6.8kΩ resistor between pins 8 & 10 together with the 4.7nF capacitor at pin 8. This produces a rectangular waveform (not quite square but pretty close) at pin 10 to drive complementary switching transistors Q2 & Q3.
The waveform at their commoned emitters drives a diode pump consisting of two 100μF capacitors and Schottky diodes D1 & D2. The waveform generated by the circuit can be seen in the scope photo of Fig.2.
Oscillator IC1c is controlled by an RS (Reset/Set) flipflop comprising the two NAND gates IC1a & IC1b and this is controlled by pushbutton switches S1 and S2. Normally, this has its pin 4 low and pins 1 & 6 are pulled high via 470kΩ resistors. Momentarily closing S1 (ON) pulls pin 6 low, causing the flipflop to change state so that pin 4 now goes high to enable IC1c which now oscillates at 30kHz.
The 30kHz waveform produced by transistors Q2 & Q3 drives the diode pump referred to earlier and this develops about 21V to drive the LED columns. Each column of five white LEDs is driven by its own current source transistor which has a 33Ω emitter resistor. The bases of all six current source transistors (Q4-Q9) are driven from pin 4 of IC1b via a 6.8kΩ resistor and clamped to a maximum of +1.2V by diodes D3 & D4.
Subtract the 0.6V between the base and emitter of each transistor and you are left with 0.6V across each 33Ω resistor, thus setting the LED drive current to 18mA. Switching the circuit off is accomplished by pushing the OFF switch, S2. This momentarily pulls pin 1 low to toggle the RS flipflop, thus causing pin 4 to go low. This disables IC1c, Q2 & Q3 and also turns off the current source transistors.
Note that there is an interesting wrinkle to this drive circuit, because there is no On/Off switch. This means that the current source transistors must be turned off otherwise they would continue to draw current from the 12V supply even when the circuit is nominally off. The current path may not be obvious but it is via the boost circuit’s diodes, D1 & D2.
As well as using the pushbutton switches S1 & S2 to turn the circuit on and off, there is also a facility to automatically turn the circuit on and off depending on ambient light levels. Links L1 & L2 can be used to provide Auto On and Auto Off respectively and these features can be used separately or together.
An LDR (light dependent resistor) is used to monitor the ambient light level. When light falls upon it, it pulls the base of Q1 low, causing pins 12 & 11 of IC1d to go low and its pin 11 to go high. When darkness falls (or the room lights go out), the process is reversed. Depending on whether you have one or both links connected, you can use the pushbuttons to turn the circuit on and off and have it turn on and/off automatically as well.
Q1 also drives a red high brightness LED (LED1) at very low current, via a 470kΩ resistor. This is a bit of a gimmick but it does have the benefit of showing that this part of the circuit is working, if you have to trouble-shoot it.
Pins 1 & 2, 5 & 6 and 8 & 9 of IC1 on the circuit are all swapped. The PC board overlay diagram is correct.
Continue Reading[..]
 |
| 30 White LEDs Driver Circuit Diagram |
Instead of around 1.8V to 2V or thereabouts, they normally require more than 3V to produce their rated brightness. In fact, if you are driving a bunch of them you need to drive them all at constant current otherwise their individual brightness tends to vary markedly. However, if you only have a 12V supply available, you can only put two or maybe three LEDs in series together with a constant current source and this leads to poor efficiency.
The approach in this circuit is to boost the 12V supply to something around 21V and this means that we can have groups of five LEDs, each in series with their own current source transistors. The result is a single PC board with the drive circuitry and 30 white LEDs. It can be used for lighting in caravans and recreational vehicles, emergency lighting or whatever application you can think of. Current drain is around 190mA at 12V.
Circuit description
Now let’s have a look at the circuit of Fig.1. It uses just one IC (a 4093 quad NAND Schmitt trigger gate package), a few transistors and diodes, 30 white LEDs and not much else. So where is the familiar boost converter circuit? Answer: there isn’t one or least not one with an inductor switched by a Mosfet. Instead, there is a charge pump inverter, comprising IC1c, transistors Q2 & Q3, Schottky diodes D1 & D2 and a few capacitors. It works as follows:
IC1c is connected as an inverter oscillator and its running frequency of about 30kHz is determined mainly by the 6.8kΩ resistor between pins 8 & 10 together with the 4.7nF capacitor at pin 8. This produces a rectangular waveform (not quite square but pretty close) at pin 10 to drive complementary switching transistors Q2 & Q3.
The waveform at their commoned emitters drives a diode pump consisting of two 100μF capacitors and Schottky diodes D1 & D2. The waveform generated by the circuit can be seen in the scope photo of Fig.2.
RS flipflop
Oscillator IC1c is controlled by an RS (Reset/Set) flipflop comprising the two NAND gates IC1a & IC1b and this is controlled by pushbutton switches S1 and S2. Normally, this has its pin 4 low and pins 1 & 6 are pulled high via 470kΩ resistors. Momentarily closing S1 (ON) pulls pin 6 low, causing the flipflop to change state so that pin 4 now goes high to enable IC1c which now oscillates at 30kHz.
The 30kHz waveform produced by transistors Q2 & Q3 drives the diode pump referred to earlier and this develops about 21V to drive the LED columns. Each column of five white LEDs is driven by its own current source transistor which has a 33Ω emitter resistor. The bases of all six current source transistors (Q4-Q9) are driven from pin 4 of IC1b via a 6.8kΩ resistor and clamped to a maximum of +1.2V by diodes D3 & D4.
Subtract the 0.6V between the base and emitter of each transistor and you are left with 0.6V across each 33Ω resistor, thus setting the LED drive current to 18mA. Switching the circuit off is accomplished by pushing the OFF switch, S2. This momentarily pulls pin 1 low to toggle the RS flipflop, thus causing pin 4 to go low. This disables IC1c, Q2 & Q3 and also turns off the current source transistors.
Note that there is an interesting wrinkle to this drive circuit, because there is no On/Off switch. This means that the current source transistors must be turned off otherwise they would continue to draw current from the 12V supply even when the circuit is nominally off. The current path may not be obvious but it is via the boost circuit’s diodes, D1 & D2.
Auto on/off
As well as using the pushbutton switches S1 & S2 to turn the circuit on and off, there is also a facility to automatically turn the circuit on and off depending on ambient light levels. Links L1 & L2 can be used to provide Auto On and Auto Off respectively and these features can be used separately or together.
An LDR (light dependent resistor) is used to monitor the ambient light level. When light falls upon it, it pulls the base of Q1 low, causing pins 12 & 11 of IC1d to go low and its pin 11 to go high. When darkness falls (or the room lights go out), the process is reversed. Depending on whether you have one or both links connected, you can use the pushbuttons to turn the circuit on and off and have it turn on and/off automatically as well.
Q1 also drives a red high brightness LED (LED1) at very low current, via a 470kΩ resistor. This is a bit of a gimmick but it does have the benefit of showing that this part of the circuit is working, if you have to trouble-shoot it.
Note:
Pins 1 & 2, 5 & 6 and 8 & 9 of IC1 on the circuit are all swapped. The PC board overlay diagram is correct.
Friday, December 20, 2013
40 LED Bicycle Light
The 555 circuit below is a flashing bicycle light powered with four C,D or AA cells (6 volts). Two sets of 20 LEDs will alternately flash at approximately 4.7 cycles per second using RC values shown (4.7K for R1, 150K for R2 and a 1uF capacitor). Time intervals for the two lamps are about 107 milliseconds (T1, upper LEDs) and 104 milliseconds (T2 lower LEDs). Two transistors are used to provide additional current beyond the 200mA limit of the 555 timer.
A single LED is placed in series with the base of the PNP transistor so that the lower 20 LEDs turn off when the 555 output goes high during the T1 time interval. The high output level of the 555 timer is 1.7 volts less than the supply voltage. Adding the LED increases the forward voltage required for the PNP transistor to about 2.7 volts so that the 1.7 volt difference from supply to the output is insufficient to turn on the transistor.
Each LED is supplied with about 20mA of current for a total of 220mA. The circuit should work with additional LEDs up to about 40 for each group, or 81 total. The circuit will also work with fewer LEDs so it could be assembled and tested with just 5 LEDs (two groups of two plus one) before adding the others.
Continue Reading[..]
A single LED is placed in series with the base of the PNP transistor so that the lower 20 LEDs turn off when the 555 output goes high during the T1 time interval. The high output level of the 555 timer is 1.7 volts less than the supply voltage. Adding the LED increases the forward voltage required for the PNP transistor to about 2.7 volts so that the 1.7 volt difference from supply to the output is insufficient to turn on the transistor.
Each LED is supplied with about 20mA of current for a total of 220mA. The circuit should work with additional LEDs up to about 40 for each group, or 81 total. The circuit will also work with fewer LEDs so it could be assembled and tested with just 5 LEDs (two groups of two plus one) before adding the others.
Circuit Source: DIY Electronics Projects
Wednesday, June 12, 2013
ISL97672A power LED driver electronic project and circuits
Using the ISL97672A can be designed a power LED driver circuit that controls six channels of LED current for LCD backlight applications. The ISL97672A power LED driver is capable of driving LEDs from 4.5V to 26.5V, with a maximum output of 45V.
The ISL97672A power LED driver employs an adaptive boost switching architecture that allows Direct PWM dimming with linearity as low as 0.007% at 200Hz or 0.8% at 20kHz. Dimming can be as high as 30kHz.
This LED driver can compensate for non-uniformity of forward voltage drops in the LED strings. Its headroom control circuit monitors the highest LED forward voltage string for output regulation to minimize voltage headroom and power loss in a typical multi-string operation.
The IC features extensive protection functions that flag whenever a fault occurs. The protections include string-open and short-circuit detections, OVP, OTP, and an optional output short-circuit protection with a fault disconnect switch
LED drivers for direct, multiplexed videowalls, information displays circuits
Sunday, April 7, 2013
Mains Powered White LED Lamp
Did it ever occur to you that an array of white LEDs can be used as a small lamp for the living room? If not, read on. LED lamps are available ready-made, look exactly the same as standard halogen lamps and can be fitted in a standard 230-V light fitting. We opened one, and as expected, a capacitor has been used to drop the voltage from 230 V to the voltage suitable for the LEDs. This method is cheaper and smaller compared to using a transformer. The lamp uses only 1 watt and therefore also gives off less light than, say, a 20 W halogen lamp. The light is also somewhat bluer. The circuit operates in the following manner: C1 behaves as a voltage dropping ‘resistor’ and ensures that the current is not too high (about 12 mA).
The bridge rectifier turns the AC voltage into a DC voltage. LEDs can only operate from a DC voltage. They will even fail when the negative voltage is greater then 5 V. The electrolytic capacitor has a double function: it ensures that there is sufficient voltage to light the LEDs when the mains voltage is less than the forward voltage of the LEDs and it takes care of the inrush current peak that occurs when the mains is switched on. This current pulse could otherwise damage the LEDs. Then there is the 560-ohm resistor, it ensures that the current through the LED is more constant and therefore the light output is more uniform.
There is a voltage drop of 6.7 V across the 560-Ω resistor, that is, 12 mA flows through the LEDs. This is a safe value. The total voltage drop across the LEDs is therefore 15 LEDs times 3 V or about 45 V. The voltage across the electrolytic capacitor is a little more than 52V. To understand how C1 functions, we can calculate the impedance (that is, resistance to AC voltage) as follows: 1/(2π·f·C), or: 1/ (2·3.14·50·220·10-9)= 14k4. When we multiply this with 12 mA, we get a voltage drop across the capacitor of 173 V. This works quite well, since the 173-V capacitor voltage plus the 52-V LED voltage equals 225 V. Close enough to the mains voltage, which is officially 230 V.
Mains Powered White LED Lamp Circuit Diagram
Moreover, the latter calculation is not very accurate because the mains voltage is in practice not quite sinusoidal. Furthermore, the mains voltage from which 50-V DC has been removed is far from sinusoidal. Finally, if you need lots of white LEDs then it is worth considering buying one of these lamps and smashing the bulb with a hammer (with a cloth or bag around the bulb to prevent flying glass!) and salvaging the LEDs from it. This can be much cheaper than buying individual LEDs…
Thursday, March 28, 2013
Build LED Light Pen Schematic
Physicians and repair engineers often use small light pens for visual examination purposes. Rugged and expensive as these pens may be, their weak point is the bulb, which is a ‘serviceable’ part. In practice, that nearly always equates to ‘expensive’ and / or ‘impossible to find’ when you need one.
LEDs have a much longer life than bulbs and the latest ultra bright white ones also offer higher energy-to-light conversion efficiency. On the down side, LEDs require a small electronic helper circuit called ‘constant-current source’ to get the most out of them.
LED Light Pen Circuit Diagram
Here, T1 and R1 switch on the LED. R2 acts as a current sensor with T2 shunting off (most of) T1’s base bias current when the voltage developed across R2 exceeds about 0.65 V. The constant current through the white LED is calculated from
R2 = 0.65 / ILED
With some skill the complete circuit can be built such that its size is equal to an AA battery. The four button cells take the place of the other AA battery that used to be inside the light pen. Link
LEDs have a much longer life than bulbs and the latest ultra bright white ones also offer higher energy-to-light conversion efficiency. On the down side, LEDs require a small electronic helper circuit called ‘constant-current source’ to get the most out of them.
LED Light Pen Circuit Diagram
Here, T1 and R1 switch on the LED. R2 acts as a current sensor with T2 shunting off (most of) T1’s base bias current when the voltage developed across R2 exceeds about 0.65 V. The constant current through the white LED is calculated from
R2 = 0.65 / ILED
With some skill the complete circuit can be built such that its size is equal to an AA battery. The four button cells take the place of the other AA battery that used to be inside the light pen. Link
Author: Myo Min – Copyright: Elektor
Tuesday, March 19, 2013
How to Make 1 A Constant Current LED Driver Circuit
The article explains a simple circuit using the IC MBI6651 from MACROBLOCK. The IC has been specifically designed for operating high power LEDs safely by providing a constant current output. The circuit includes very few external components and therefore becomes very easy to assemble at home.
About the IC MBI6651
The IC MBI6651 is a high efficiency, step down DC to DC converter chip capable of driving high power LEDs at a safe 1 Amp constant current.
The IC requires just four passive external components for making it functional.
The output current of the IC can be externally set by selecting the appropriate resistor value.
The IC also features a PWM controlled dimming control of the connected LEDs.
Some of the other outstanding features of this IC includes UVLO meaning under voltage lockout, over temperature shut down, LED open circuit protection and LED short circuit protection, all these ensure complete safety to the IC from wrongly configured output loads.
Typical Application of this device are:
Automotive decoration and illumination
LED flood lights using high intensity, high power LED.
The IC also can be used as a constant current source in particular circuit applications.
Setting the output Current
The output current of the IC is fixed through an external resistor Rsen. The output current Iout and the adjustment resistor Rsen has the following relation:
Given Vsen=0.1V
Rsen=(Vsen/Iout)=(0.1V/Iout)
Where Rsen is the value of the external resistor. This resistor is connected across the pin outs SEN and Vsen of the IC.
The optimum current with Rsen 0.1 Ohms is 1000 mA or 1 Amp.
Optimizing External Component Selection
Inductor: Two issues specify the inductor type, the switching frequency and the ripple current. The involved calculation can be written as:
L1>{Vin - Vout - Vsen - (Rds(on) * Iout)} * D/fsw * delta.IL
where, Rds(on) is the on-resistance of the ICs internal MOSFET. The value is typically around 0.45 at 12V
D is the duty cycle of the IC, given as D = Vout/Vin
fsw is the switching frequency of the IC
While designing the inductor for the given circuit, along with the inductance the saturation current must also be taken into account,because these are two basic factors which typically affects the overall performance of the circuit.
The rule of thumb, the saturation current of the inductor should be selected 1.5 times greater than the LED current.
Moreover, selecting high values for the inductance provides better line and load regulation.
Refer circuit diagram
Selecting the Schottky diode
The diode D1 shown in the circuit diagram basically acts as the flywheel diode for nullifying the inductor back emf during the periods when the LED is switched OFF.
The diode must be selected with the following couple of important characteristics:
It should have a low forward voltage rating and maximum possible reverse voltage tolerance.
Selecting the capacitor
The general rule is always to select a capacitor value with a voltage tolerance 1.5 times higher than the supply voltage.
Preferably, a tantalum capacitor should be selected because these have high capacitance and low ESR characteristics.
The proposed circuit of 1 Amp constant current LED driver circuit is given below:
The basic operating parameters are given below:
Pin Out Specs:
About the IC MBI6651
The IC MBI6651 is a high efficiency, step down DC to DC converter chip capable of driving high power LEDs at a safe 1 Amp constant current.
The IC requires just four passive external components for making it functional.
The output current of the IC can be externally set by selecting the appropriate resistor value.
The IC also features a PWM controlled dimming control of the connected LEDs.
Some of the other outstanding features of this IC includes UVLO meaning under voltage lockout, over temperature shut down, LED open circuit protection and LED short circuit protection, all these ensure complete safety to the IC from wrongly configured output loads.
Typical Application of this device are:
Automotive decoration and illumination
LED flood lights using high intensity, high power LED.
The IC also can be used as a constant current source in particular circuit applications.
Setting the output Current
The output current of the IC is fixed through an external resistor Rsen. The output current Iout and the adjustment resistor Rsen has the following relation:
Given Vsen=0.1V
Rsen=(Vsen/Iout)=(0.1V/Iout)
Where Rsen is the value of the external resistor. This resistor is connected across the pin outs SEN and Vsen of the IC.
The optimum current with Rsen 0.1 Ohms is 1000 mA or 1 Amp.
Optimizing External Component Selection
Inductor: Two issues specify the inductor type, the switching frequency and the ripple current. The involved calculation can be written as:
L1>{Vin - Vout - Vsen - (Rds(on) * Iout)} * D/fsw * delta.IL
where, Rds(on) is the on-resistance of the ICs internal MOSFET. The value is typically around 0.45 at 12V
D is the duty cycle of the IC, given as D = Vout/Vin
fsw is the switching frequency of the IC
While designing the inductor for the given circuit, along with the inductance the saturation current must also be taken into account,because these are two basic factors which typically affects the overall performance of the circuit.
The rule of thumb, the saturation current of the inductor should be selected 1.5 times greater than the LED current.
Moreover, selecting high values for the inductance provides better line and load regulation.
Refer circuit diagram
Selecting the Schottky diode
The diode D1 shown in the circuit diagram basically acts as the flywheel diode for nullifying the inductor back emf during the periods when the LED is switched OFF.
The diode must be selected with the following couple of important characteristics:
It should have a low forward voltage rating and maximum possible reverse voltage tolerance.
Selecting the capacitor
The general rule is always to select a capacitor value with a voltage tolerance 1.5 times higher than the supply voltage.
Preferably, a tantalum capacitor should be selected because these have high capacitance and low ESR characteristics.
The proposed circuit of 1 Amp constant current LED driver circuit is given below:
The basic operating parameters are given below:
Pin Out Specs:
Courtesy: http://www.ledlabs.ru/pdf/macroblock/mbi6651.pdf
Monday, March 18, 2013
Fine Control SuperBright LED Pulser
Four timing controls - 12V supply, Suitable for Halloween or Christmas props
This circuit, designed on request for a Halloween prop, allows fine control of a pulsing Super Bright white LED. The four potentiometers or trimmers will set precisely: on, off, ramp up and ramp down time-delays respectively. Ramp up and ramp down time-delays can be set roughly in the 1 - 15 seconds range, whereas on and off time-delays can range from a few seconds to about one minute. A 12V battery or regulated power supply is required, provided it is reasonably stable. Total current drawing is about 25 - 30mA when the LED reaches maximum brightness.
Circuit diagram :
FFine Control SuperBright LED Pulser Circuit Daigram
Parts:R1,R5,R12,R13___10K 1/4W Resistors
R2,R5___________10K 1/2W Trimmers or Lin. Potentiometers
R3______________47K 1/4W Resistor
R4______________22K 1/4W Resistor
R6_______________1K 1/4W Resistor
R7,R8,R9,R14___100K 1/4W Resistors
R10,R11__________2M2 1/2W Trimmers or Lin. Potentiometers
R15____________220R 1/4W Resistor
C1,C2__________100nF 63V Polyester or ceramic Capacitors
C3,C4___________22µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C5_____________220µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1,D2________1N4148 75V 150mA Diodes
D3______________LED Super Bright white (e.g. RL5-UV2030)
Q1____________BC337 45V 800mA NPN Transistor
IC1___________LM324 Low Power Quad Op-amp IC
IC2____________4093 Quad 2 input Schmitt NAND Gate IC
Notes:
- Wanting to use two white LEDs, the second device must be wired across the Emitter of the transistor and negative ground with its own limiting resistor wired in series, like R15 and D3 in the circuit diagram.
- If common red, yellow or green LEDs are required, please wire two of them in series, in order to present roughly the same voltage drop of one white or blue LED.
- Please note that the unused sections in both ICs must have their inputs tied to negative ground whereas the outputs must be left open, as shown at the bottom of the diagram.
- All time-delays can be increased by changing the value of C3 and C4 to 47µF 25V or even higher. Please vary the value of these capacitors only, as the values of the resistors wired to the four control pots are rather critical and should not be changed.
Source : www.redcircuits.com
Sunday, March 17, 2013
Make This Mains Transformerless LED Controller Circuit
Normally LED control circuits are based on buck boost or flyback principles, where the circuit is configured to produce a constant DC for illuminating an LED series.
The above LED control systems have their respective drawbacks and the positives in which the range of operating voltage and the number of LEDs at the output decide the efficiency of the circuit. Other factors like whether the LEDs are included in parallel or series or whether they need to bedimmed or not, also affects the above topologies. These considerations make these LED control circuits rather dicey and complicated.
The circuit explained here employs a different approach and relies on a resonant mode of application.
Though the circuit does not provide direct isolation from the input AC, it has the features of driving many LEDs with current levels as high as 750 mA. The soft switching process involved in the circuit ensures greater efficiency to the unit.
Basically the mains transformerless LED control circuit is designed around the fluorescent lamp dimmer control IC IRS2530D. The circuit diagram shows how the IC has been wired up and how its output has been modified for controlling LEDs in place of the usual fluorescent lamp.
The usual preheating stage required for a tube light utilized a resonant tank which is now effectively replaced by a LC circuit suitable for driving LEDs.
Because the current at the output is an AC, the need of a bridge rectifier at the output became imperative; this makes sure that current is continuously passing through the LEDs during every switching cycle of the frequency.
The AC current sensing is done by the resistor RCS, placed across the common and the bottom of the rectifier.
This provides an instant AC measurement of the amplitude of the rectified LED current.
The DIM pin of the IC receives the above AC measurement via the resistor RFB and capacitor CFB.
This allows the dimmer control loop of the IC to keep track of the LED current amplitude and regulates it by instantaneously varying the frequency of the half bridge switching circuit, such that the voltage across the LED maintains a correct RMS value.
The dimmer loop also helps to keep the LED current constant irrespective of the line voltage, load current and temperature changes.
Whether a single LED is connected or a group in series, the LED parameters is always maintained correctly by the IC.
Alternatively the configuration may also be used as a high current transformerless power supply circuit.
Courtesy - http://www.irf.com/pressroom/articles/594LEDP0902.pdf
Saturday, March 2, 2013
How to Make a Cheap LED Name Plate with Illuminated Back Light
LEDs are no doubt gaining popularity by leaps and bounds and probably most of the illuminated decorative articles today incorporate LED as the light source. These devices are relatively cheap, extremely bright and outstandingly efficient with their operations.
Digital displays today also incorporate LED technology and we all know how impressive they look with the involved digits distinctly visible with an illuminated back light.
The back illumination especially gives a fuller look and helps to highlight the display in a better way.
However these displays can be pretty expensive and require microcontroller ICs for producing the involved illuminations. A new hobbyist may find it difficult to grasp and make such displays at home.
Using LEDs in series for designing alphanumerical displays consisting of the desired names and numbers looks good but these dont produce the effects which is generally obtained from a back illuminated displays.
A cheap way of making a back illuminated display or a name plate having the desired alphabets is explained here, lets see how we can implement the whole concept very cheaply.
For making the proposed back illuminated name plate circuit design we will basically require the following very few of the components.
Four high bright LEDs, color will depend on the user preference, I used blue LEDs in my prototype because my party wanted blue back light illumination for his displays.
A rectangular plastic lens, made up of acrylic material.
PCB as shown in the figure.
Positive film of the desired name or, a screen printed film with the name portion kept transparent while the rest of the area painted black and opaque.
150 Ohm resistor, 1 no.
Refer circuit diagram
How to Make the Display.
Connect the LEDs and the resistor as shown in the figure below such that the LEDs focus the light across the length of the rectangular PCB.
Cut the acrylic lens such that it perfectly fits in between the LEDs, make notches or grooves at the lens ends for making a snug fitting with the LEDs.
Now scratch one of the surfaces of the acrylic lens with a polish paper or an emery paper, such that it becomes rough and grainy on that surface and almost opaque for a clear vision, this operation is the secret behind producing a perfect and uniform back light.
Place a white paper cut to size on the PCB such that the light from the LEDs floods the white paper across the length.
Next place the lens in the center of the LED, over the PCB and the above white paper with its roughened surface on the top side.
Next place the positive film of the name display over the above lens.
Switch ON power to the LEDs, wow! your name plate is glowing bright with an illuminated back-light thats uniformly lit across the whole displayed name.
Put insulation tape over the side ends of the unit such that light does not escape from these areas.
Enclose the whole unit inside a suitable rectangular box for displaying it in the preferred location.
PCB, LED and the Lens Set Up
Positive placed over the lens for the final illuminated get-up:
Now some glimpses of the actual prototype:
First, the PCB/LED design:
Completed Prototype, Switched ON:
In Dark:
Digital displays today also incorporate LED technology and we all know how impressive they look with the involved digits distinctly visible with an illuminated back light.
The back illumination especially gives a fuller look and helps to highlight the display in a better way.
However these displays can be pretty expensive and require microcontroller ICs for producing the involved illuminations. A new hobbyist may find it difficult to grasp and make such displays at home.
Using LEDs in series for designing alphanumerical displays consisting of the desired names and numbers looks good but these dont produce the effects which is generally obtained from a back illuminated displays.
A cheap way of making a back illuminated display or a name plate having the desired alphabets is explained here, lets see how we can implement the whole concept very cheaply.
For making the proposed back illuminated name plate circuit design we will basically require the following very few of the components.
Four high bright LEDs, color will depend on the user preference, I used blue LEDs in my prototype because my party wanted blue back light illumination for his displays.
A rectangular plastic lens, made up of acrylic material.
PCB as shown in the figure.
Positive film of the desired name or, a screen printed film with the name portion kept transparent while the rest of the area painted black and opaque.
150 Ohm resistor, 1 no.
Refer circuit diagram
How to Make the Display.
Connect the LEDs and the resistor as shown in the figure below such that the LEDs focus the light across the length of the rectangular PCB.
Cut the acrylic lens such that it perfectly fits in between the LEDs, make notches or grooves at the lens ends for making a snug fitting with the LEDs.
Now scratch one of the surfaces of the acrylic lens with a polish paper or an emery paper, such that it becomes rough and grainy on that surface and almost opaque for a clear vision, this operation is the secret behind producing a perfect and uniform back light.
Place a white paper cut to size on the PCB such that the light from the LEDs floods the white paper across the length.
Next place the lens in the center of the LED, over the PCB and the above white paper with its roughened surface on the top side.
Next place the positive film of the name display over the above lens.
Switch ON power to the LEDs, wow! your name plate is glowing bright with an illuminated back-light thats uniformly lit across the whole displayed name.
Put insulation tape over the side ends of the unit such that light does not escape from these areas.
Enclose the whole unit inside a suitable rectangular box for displaying it in the preferred location.
PCB, LED and the Lens Set Up
Lens Placed over the PCB
Example film positive of a particular display name:
Positive placed over the lens for the final illuminated get-up:
Now some glimpses of the actual prototype:
First, the PCB/LED design:
Completed Prototype, Switched ON:
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