Showing posts with label light. Show all posts
Showing posts with label light. Show all posts
Saturday, January 11, 2014
Push Bike Light
Automatic switch-on when it gets dark, 6V or 3V battery operation
This design was primarily intended to allow automatic switch-on of push-bike lights when it gets dark. Obviously, it can be used for any other purpose involving one or more lamps to be switched on and off depending of light intensity. Power can be supplied by any type of battery suitable to be fitted in your bike and having a voltage in the 3 to 6 Volts range.
The Photo resistor R1 should be fitted into the box containing the complete circuit, but a hole should be made in a convenient side of the box to allow the light hitting the sensor. Trim R2 until the desired switching threshold is reached. The setup will require some experimenting, but it should not be difficult.
Push-Bike Light Circuit Diagram
R1_____________Photo resistor (any type)
R2______________22K 1/2W Trimmer Cermet or Carbon type
R3_______________1K 1/4W Resistor
R4_______________2K7 1/4W Resistor
R5_____________330R 1/4W Resistor (See Notes)
R6_______________1R5 1W Resistor (See Notes)
D1____________1N4148 75V 150mA Diode
Q1_____________BC547 45V 200mA NPN Transistor
Q2_____________BD438 45V 4A PNP Transistor
LP1____________Filament Lamp(s) (See Notes)
SW1_____________SPST Toggle or Slider Switch
B1______________6V or 3V Battery (See Notes)
Notes:
- In this circuit, the maximum current and voltage delivered to the lamp(s) are limited mainly by R6 (that cant be omitted if a clean and reliable switching is expected). Therefore, the Ohms Law must be used to calculate the best voltage and current values of the bulbs.
- For example: at 6V supply, one or more 6V bulbs having a total current drawing of 500mA can be used, but for a total current drawing of 1A, 4.5V bulbs must be chosen, as the voltage drop across R6 will become 1.5V. In this case, R6 should be a 2W type.
- At 3V supply, R6 value can be lowered to 1 or 0.5 Ohm and the operating voltage of the bulbs should be chosen accordingly, by applying the Ohms Law.
- Example: Supply voltage = 3V, R6 = 1R, total current drawing 600mA. Choose 2.2V bulbs as the voltage drop caused by R6 will be 0.6V.
- At 3V supply, R5 value must be changed to 100R.
- Stand-by current is less than 500µA, provided R2 value after trimming is set at about 5K or higher: therefore, the power switch SW1 can be omitted. If R2 value is set below 5K the stand-by current will increase substantially.
Source : http://www.ecircuitslab.com/2011/07/push-bike-light.html
Tuesday, December 24, 2013
Traffic Light Controller
Here the simple traffic light controller which is could be used to educate kids rudiments of traffic light guidelines. The circuit utilizes easily available electronic parts. It generally consists of rectifier diodes (1N4001), a 5V regulator 7805, two timers circuit using IC 555, two relays (5V, single-changeover), three 15W, 230V light bulbs and also several discrete parts.
Traffic Light Controller Circuit diagram :
Mains electrical power is stepped down by transformer X1 to provide a secondary output voltage of 9V, 300 mA – AC. Then the transformer output current is rectified by a full-wave bridge rectifier composed of diodes D1 through D4, filtered by capacitor C1 and also regulated by IC 7805 (IC1).
IC2 is wired as a multivibrator with ‘on’ and ‘off’ periods of about 30 seconds each with the part values determined. Once mains power switch is turned on, pin 3 of IC2 goes high for 30 seconds. This, in turn, energises relay RL1 via transistor T1 and the red bulb (B1) glows through its normally-open (N/O) contact. At the same time, mains power is turned off from the pole of relay RL2. As the ‘on’ time of IC2 ends, a triggers IC3 through C5. IC3 is set up as a monostable with ‘on’ time of about 4 seconds, which indicates pin 3 of IC3 will stay high for this period of time and energise relay RL2 through driver transistor T2. The amber bulb (B2) thus lightings up for 4 seconds.
Immediately after 4-second time period of timer IC3 at pin 3 lapses, relay RL2 de-energises and also the green bulb (B3) lights up for the rest of ‘off’ period of IC2, which is about 26 seconds. The green bulb is turned on through the normally closed (N/C) contacts of relay RL2. So when mains electrical switch is turned on, red light will light up for 30 seconds, amber for 4 seconds and green for 26 seconds.
You can easily build this circuit on a general purpose PCB and enclose in a protected box. The box needs to have sufficient area for installing transformer X1 and also two relays. It could be installed near 230V AC, 50Hz power supply or mounted on the PVC tube applied in assembly of the traffic light box.
Design of the traffic light container box is demonstrated in following image:
A stout cardboard box of 30x15x10cm3 is needed for housing the lights. To make certain durability, work with a 10x45cm2 plywood plate having 1.5 centimeters thickness and also secure onto it three light outlets and the box utilizing nuts and bolts or screws. Make three tubes of thin aluminium sheet, which is easily offered in equipment stores. The inner diameter of aluminium tubes ought to be such that these can well match on the light outlets. Working with a sharp knife, make holes opposite the outlets carefully. Wire the outlets at the back and take the cables out through the PVC tube.
To begin with, fix three 15W light bulbs (B1 through B3) and then press on the tubes. Support the other ends of the tubes in the holes made on the front panel of cardboard box. Sandwich gelatine papers of the three colors in between two sheets of cardboard and fix over the tubes. The visibility of red, amber and also green lights enhances with their installation on the tubular shape.
Friday, December 20, 2013
40 LED Bicycle Light
The 555 circuit below is a flashing bicycle light powered with four C,D or AA cells (6 volts). Two sets of 20 LEDs will alternately flash at approximately 4.7 cycles per second using RC values shown (4.7K for R1, 150K for R2 and a 1uF capacitor). Time intervals for the two lamps are about 107 milliseconds (T1, upper LEDs) and 104 milliseconds (T2 lower LEDs). Two transistors are used to provide additional current beyond the 200mA limit of the 555 timer.
A single LED is placed in series with the base of the PNP transistor so that the lower 20 LEDs turn off when the 555 output goes high during the T1 time interval. The high output level of the 555 timer is 1.7 volts less than the supply voltage. Adding the LED increases the forward voltage required for the PNP transistor to about 2.7 volts so that the 1.7 volt difference from supply to the output is insufficient to turn on the transistor.
Each LED is supplied with about 20mA of current for a total of 220mA. The circuit should work with additional LEDs up to about 40 for each group, or 81 total. The circuit will also work with fewer LEDs so it could be assembled and tested with just 5 LEDs (two groups of two plus one) before adding the others.
Continue Reading[..]
A single LED is placed in series with the base of the PNP transistor so that the lower 20 LEDs turn off when the 555 output goes high during the T1 time interval. The high output level of the 555 timer is 1.7 volts less than the supply voltage. Adding the LED increases the forward voltage required for the PNP transistor to about 2.7 volts so that the 1.7 volt difference from supply to the output is insufficient to turn on the transistor.
Each LED is supplied with about 20mA of current for a total of 220mA. The circuit should work with additional LEDs up to about 40 for each group, or 81 total. The circuit will also work with fewer LEDs so it could be assembled and tested with just 5 LEDs (two groups of two plus one) before adding the others.
Circuit Source: DIY Electronics Projects
Thursday, April 4, 2013
Night Security Light Circuit
This is a design simple circuit switches on a light around 2 hours after midnight, the time at which most of the robberies taking place. This circuit is work based on CMOS IC and LDR system. This is the figure of the circuit.
This is the explanation for the operation of the circuit. This simple circuit is build around a CMOS IC 4060 to obtain the required timing. During day time the LDR has low resistance and keeps the pin 12 of the IC1 high, preventing the IC1 from oscillating. When it is dark the LDR resistance becomes high and the pin 12 of IC1 becomes low and the IC starts oscillating, which indicated by the flashing of LED D3.
The values of the timing components R1, R2, C4 are so selected that the out put pin3 of IC1 goes high after 8 hours. That means the high output drives the triac to switch on the lamp around 2, 0 clock. At morning, the LDR resistance drops and the pin 12 of IC1 goes high and stops the oscillation, making the lamp OFF. The switch S1 can be used to manually ON the lamp. The capacitor C2 prevents false triggering. The LDR can be general purpose LDR. The light sensitivity can be adjusted using the preset R6. The IC1 must be mounted on an IC holder.
This is the explanation for the operation of the circuit. This simple circuit is build around a CMOS IC 4060 to obtain the required timing. During day time the LDR has low resistance and keeps the pin 12 of the IC1 high, preventing the IC1 from oscillating. When it is dark the LDR resistance becomes high and the pin 12 of IC1 becomes low and the IC starts oscillating, which indicated by the flashing of LED D3.
The values of the timing components R1, R2, C4 are so selected that the out put pin3 of IC1 goes high after 8 hours. That means the high output drives the triac to switch on the lamp around 2, 0 clock. At morning, the LDR resistance drops and the pin 12 of IC1 goes high and stops the oscillation, making the lamp OFF. The switch S1 can be used to manually ON the lamp. The capacitor C2 prevents false triggering. The LDR can be general purpose LDR. The light sensitivity can be adjusted using the preset R6. The IC1 must be mounted on an IC holder.
Thursday, March 28, 2013
Build LED Light Pen Schematic
Physicians and repair engineers often use small light pens for visual examination purposes. Rugged and expensive as these pens may be, their weak point is the bulb, which is a ‘serviceable’ part. In practice, that nearly always equates to ‘expensive’ and / or ‘impossible to find’ when you need one.
LEDs have a much longer life than bulbs and the latest ultra bright white ones also offer higher energy-to-light conversion efficiency. On the down side, LEDs require a small electronic helper circuit called ‘constant-current source’ to get the most out of them.
LED Light Pen Circuit Diagram
Here, T1 and R1 switch on the LED. R2 acts as a current sensor with T2 shunting off (most of) T1’s base bias current when the voltage developed across R2 exceeds about 0.65 V. The constant current through the white LED is calculated from
R2 = 0.65 / ILED
With some skill the complete circuit can be built such that its size is equal to an AA battery. The four button cells take the place of the other AA battery that used to be inside the light pen. Link
LEDs have a much longer life than bulbs and the latest ultra bright white ones also offer higher energy-to-light conversion efficiency. On the down side, LEDs require a small electronic helper circuit called ‘constant-current source’ to get the most out of them.
LED Light Pen Circuit Diagram
Here, T1 and R1 switch on the LED. R2 acts as a current sensor with T2 shunting off (most of) T1’s base bias current when the voltage developed across R2 exceeds about 0.65 V. The constant current through the white LED is calculated from
R2 = 0.65 / ILED
With some skill the complete circuit can be built such that its size is equal to an AA battery. The four button cells take the place of the other AA battery that used to be inside the light pen. Link
Author: Myo Min – Copyright: Elektor
Tuesday, March 26, 2013
Automatic Emergency Light
This is the simple circuit of automatic emergency light. It is called dark dependent circuit. A 555 timer IC and LDR is used for this configuration. When light fall on the LDR, its resistance is decrease and in dark position its resistance is going high. Using these characteristics of LDR, automatic emergency light is made.
Automatic Emergency Light Circuit diagram:
LDR is called Light Dependent Resistor. Its resistance is inversely proportional to the falling light on its surface. In dark, its resistance is approximately 7k to 10k. When light fall on its surface, its resistance is decrease to less than 1k. In the circuit, a voltage divider arrangement circuit is used here with LDR and 10K variable resistor.
When light fall on the surface of LDR, the resistance decrease to 1k. So the voltage of the timer pin-6 is greater than 2/3 of +Vcc. For this reason the output pin-3 goes low. The base voltage of transistor BC547 is less than 0.75 volt. The transistor is OFF state. So the light is OFF. In dark position the LDR resistance increase is high so the voltage of the trigger pin-2 decrease to less than 1/3 of +Vcc. The output pin-3 goes high so the base voltage of the transistor BC547 is greater than 0.75 volt. The transistor is ON state. So the light is ON and it emits light.
Source: http://www.ecircuitslab.com/2012/06/simple-automatic-emergency-light.html
Wednesday, March 6, 2013
How to Make Any Light a Strobe Light Using Just Two Transistors
If you feel strobe lights very interesting but are disappointed by the fact that these wonderful light effects can be produced only through complex xenon tube then probably you are quite mistaken. It is very much possible to make any light a strobe light if you are equipped with a proper driving circuit capable of handling different lighting devices to generate the desired strobe light effect. The present article shows how a circuit as basic as a multivibrator may be modified in different ways and made compatible with ordinary bulbs, lasers, LEDs to produce spectacular light pulses.
A strobe light may be used for warning, scientific analysis or as an entertainment device, whatever may be the application the effects are simply dazzling. In fact it is possible to make any light a strobe light through a proper driving circuit. Explained with Circuit Schematics.
Introduction
A light when made to blink or flash indeed looks pretty eye-catching and that’s the reason why they are used in number of places as a warning device or for decorations. However a strobe light in particular may also be considered a flashing light yet is uniquely different from ordinary light flashers. Unlike them in a strobe light the ON/OFF pattern is so optimized that it produces sharp dazzling pulsed flashes of light. There’s no doubt why they are mostly used in conjunction with fast music to enhance a party mood. Nowadays green lasers are being popularly used as a strobing device in party halls and gatherings and have become hot favorite among the new generation. Whether it’s LEDs, lasers or an ordinary filament bulb, all can be made to flash or rather strobe using an electronic circuit capable of producing the required pulsed switching in the connected lighting element. Here we will see how we can make any light a strobe light using a simple electronic circuit.
The following section will acquaint you with the circuit details. Let’s go through it.
Pulsating any Light to Produce Strobing Effect
Through one of my previous articles we came across a nice little circuit able to produce interesting strobe effects over a few of the connected LEDs. But this circuit is only suitable for driving low power LEDs and thus cannot be applied to illuminate big areas and premises. The proposed circuit allows you to drive not only LEDs but also powerful lighting agents like incandescent bulbs, lasers, CFLs etc.
The first diagram shows the most basic form of a multivibrator circuit using transistors as the main active components. The connected LEDs can be made to strobe by suitably adjusting the two potentiometers VR1 and VR2.
The above circuit forms the base for all the following circuits through some suitable modifications and additions.
For example if you want to illuminate and pulsate a small torch bulb using it, you would just need to do the simple modifications as shown in the second diagram. Here by adding a PNP power transistor and triggering it through the collector of T2, a torch bulb is easily made to strobe. Off course, optimum effect is achieved only through proper adjustment of the two Pots.
As already discussed already in the previous section, green laser pointers are pretty popular nowadays; the diagram illustrated shows a simple method of converting the above circuit into a pulsating green laser pointer strobe light. Here, T3 and T4 form a typical current controlled transistor configuration – a must when vulnerable lasers are involved. The selection of R6 can be critical and will decide the current limiting threshold for a safe operating of the laser. A wrong calculation may instantly roast your costly laser bulb. The following formula may be used for calculating R6:
U = 0.6/Ilaser,
Where U = Operating voltage of the laser and the circuit.
I (laser) = Maximum safe operating current of the laser device.
The next diagram shows how an AC mains lamp may be used as a strobing light source using the above circuit. Here a triac forms the main switching component receiving the required gate pulses from T2’s collector.
Thus we see that through the above circuit designs it becomes very easy to make any light a strobe light simply by doing the relevant modifications.
Parts List
R1, R4, R5 = 680 Ohms,
R2, R3 = 10K
VR1, VR2 = 100K pot
T1, T2 = BC547,
T3, T4 = BC557
C1, C2 = 10uF/25V
Triac = BT136
LEDs = as per choice
Parts List
R1, R4, R5 = 680 Ohms,
R2, R3 = 10K
VR1, VR2 = 100K pot
T1, T2 = BC547,
T3, T4 = BC557
C1, C2 = 10uF/25V
Triac = BT136
LEDs = as per choice
Monday, March 4, 2013
Trailer Wiring Diagram Light Plug Brakes Hitch Wire Brake
To Rv Wiring Wiring The 4 Pole Utility Trailer Plug.
Boat Wiring Illustrated Boat Wiring Illustrated Electrical.
Applications Small Boat Or Utility Trailers Any Trailer With Turn.
Family Pleasure And Fishing Boats For Sale Finance Like This One.
Trailer Wiring Electrical Connections Are Used On Car Boat And.
Trailer Wiring Diagram And Information Tridentuk Com.
More 1986 Bayliner Capri Wiring Diagram By Guto.
Terminal Number Function 7 Core Wire Colour 1 Reversing Light Yellow 2.
Trailer Wiring Diagram Light Plug Brakes Hitch 7 Pin Way Wire Brake.
All New Ck Trailer Tow Wiring Diagram Png.
Saturday, March 2, 2013
How to Make a Cheap LED Name Plate with Illuminated Back Light
LEDs are no doubt gaining popularity by leaps and bounds and probably most of the illuminated decorative articles today incorporate LED as the light source. These devices are relatively cheap, extremely bright and outstandingly efficient with their operations.
Digital displays today also incorporate LED technology and we all know how impressive they look with the involved digits distinctly visible with an illuminated back light.
The back illumination especially gives a fuller look and helps to highlight the display in a better way.
However these displays can be pretty expensive and require microcontroller ICs for producing the involved illuminations. A new hobbyist may find it difficult to grasp and make such displays at home.
Using LEDs in series for designing alphanumerical displays consisting of the desired names and numbers looks good but these dont produce the effects which is generally obtained from a back illuminated displays.
A cheap way of making a back illuminated display or a name plate having the desired alphabets is explained here, lets see how we can implement the whole concept very cheaply.
For making the proposed back illuminated name plate circuit design we will basically require the following very few of the components.
Four high bright LEDs, color will depend on the user preference, I used blue LEDs in my prototype because my party wanted blue back light illumination for his displays.
A rectangular plastic lens, made up of acrylic material.
PCB as shown in the figure.
Positive film of the desired name or, a screen printed film with the name portion kept transparent while the rest of the area painted black and opaque.
150 Ohm resistor, 1 no.
Refer circuit diagram
How to Make the Display.
Connect the LEDs and the resistor as shown in the figure below such that the LEDs focus the light across the length of the rectangular PCB.
Cut the acrylic lens such that it perfectly fits in between the LEDs, make notches or grooves at the lens ends for making a snug fitting with the LEDs.
Now scratch one of the surfaces of the acrylic lens with a polish paper or an emery paper, such that it becomes rough and grainy on that surface and almost opaque for a clear vision, this operation is the secret behind producing a perfect and uniform back light.
Place a white paper cut to size on the PCB such that the light from the LEDs floods the white paper across the length.
Next place the lens in the center of the LED, over the PCB and the above white paper with its roughened surface on the top side.
Next place the positive film of the name display over the above lens.
Switch ON power to the LEDs, wow! your name plate is glowing bright with an illuminated back-light thats uniformly lit across the whole displayed name.
Put insulation tape over the side ends of the unit such that light does not escape from these areas.
Enclose the whole unit inside a suitable rectangular box for displaying it in the preferred location.
PCB, LED and the Lens Set Up
Positive placed over the lens for the final illuminated get-up:
Now some glimpses of the actual prototype:
First, the PCB/LED design:
Completed Prototype, Switched ON:
In Dark:
Digital displays today also incorporate LED technology and we all know how impressive they look with the involved digits distinctly visible with an illuminated back light.
The back illumination especially gives a fuller look and helps to highlight the display in a better way.
However these displays can be pretty expensive and require microcontroller ICs for producing the involved illuminations. A new hobbyist may find it difficult to grasp and make such displays at home.
Using LEDs in series for designing alphanumerical displays consisting of the desired names and numbers looks good but these dont produce the effects which is generally obtained from a back illuminated displays.
A cheap way of making a back illuminated display or a name plate having the desired alphabets is explained here, lets see how we can implement the whole concept very cheaply.
For making the proposed back illuminated name plate circuit design we will basically require the following very few of the components.
Four high bright LEDs, color will depend on the user preference, I used blue LEDs in my prototype because my party wanted blue back light illumination for his displays.
A rectangular plastic lens, made up of acrylic material.
PCB as shown in the figure.
Positive film of the desired name or, a screen printed film with the name portion kept transparent while the rest of the area painted black and opaque.
150 Ohm resistor, 1 no.
Refer circuit diagram
How to Make the Display.
Connect the LEDs and the resistor as shown in the figure below such that the LEDs focus the light across the length of the rectangular PCB.
Cut the acrylic lens such that it perfectly fits in between the LEDs, make notches or grooves at the lens ends for making a snug fitting with the LEDs.
Now scratch one of the surfaces of the acrylic lens with a polish paper or an emery paper, such that it becomes rough and grainy on that surface and almost opaque for a clear vision, this operation is the secret behind producing a perfect and uniform back light.
Place a white paper cut to size on the PCB such that the light from the LEDs floods the white paper across the length.
Next place the lens in the center of the LED, over the PCB and the above white paper with its roughened surface on the top side.
Next place the positive film of the name display over the above lens.
Switch ON power to the LEDs, wow! your name plate is glowing bright with an illuminated back-light thats uniformly lit across the whole displayed name.
Put insulation tape over the side ends of the unit such that light does not escape from these areas.
Enclose the whole unit inside a suitable rectangular box for displaying it in the preferred location.
PCB, LED and the Lens Set Up
Lens Placed over the PCB
Example film positive of a particular display name:
Positive placed over the lens for the final illuminated get-up:
Now some glimpses of the actual prototype:
First, the PCB/LED design:
Completed Prototype, Switched ON:
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